What Is a Chemical Peel? Types, Depths, and What Each Treats

What does a chemical peel actually do at the skin level?

A chemical peel applies a calibrated acid solution to the skin surface for a defined dwell time. The acid breaks the bonds between dead cells in the outer layers (the stratum corneum), or reaches into deeper layers depending on strength and dwell.

The treated layer lifts in the days that follow, sometimes visibly, often not. The layer that comes up is fresher: less pigmented, more even in texture, with the surface activity (oil, breakouts, dullness) reset.

What changes from one peel to the next isn't whether the mechanism works. It's:

• Which acids are used. Glycolic, mandelic, salicylic, lactic, TCA, kojic, resorcinol each target different concerns at different depths.
• The strength of the formulation. A 30% glycolic peel does different work than a 70% glycolic peel.
• The dwell time. How long the acid sits on the skin determines how deep it reaches.
• Whether one acid or several. A single-formulation peel does one kind of work; a customised peel combines acids per face zone to do several at once.
• The clinician's calibration. Reading the skin, choosing the formulation, deciding the dwell, knowing when to stop.

The mechanism is consistent across the category. The protocol decisions are where peels go from "exfoliation" to "treatment plan."

What are the named acids, and what does each treat?

Pink's PinkRX peel runs on seven named medical-grade acids combined into eight formulations.

Glycolic acid

The most-used alpha-hydroxy acid in clinical peels. Glycolic is a small molecule, which means it penetrates more readily than larger acids. It targets surface texture, dullness, fine lines from sun damage, and uneven tone. Common strengths run from 30% to 70%. Effective across most skin types when calibrated; the clinician reduces strength for reactive skin and for Fitzpatrick IV-VI where surface inflammation can leave post-inflammatory marks.

Mandelic acid

A larger-molecule alpha-hydroxy acid, gentler than glycolic at the same strength. Mandelic is the preferred acid for Fitzpatrick IV-VI and for darker skin tones generally, because it lifts surface pigmentation without the deeper inflammatory load that can drive post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Also a useful choice for sensitive or reactive skin. Common in PinkRX formulations for melasma-prone and post-acne pigmentation.

Salicylic acid

A beta-hydroxy acid, oil-soluble (unlike the AHAs which are water-soluble). Salicylic dissolves the oil that congests pores, making it the named acid for breakout-prone skin, blackheads, and inflammatory acne. It also has anti-inflammatory properties. Effective in PinkRX formulations targeting active acne and oily skin.

Lactic acid

A gentler alpha-hydroxy acid that hydrates while it exfoliates. Larger molecule than glycolic, less aggressive. Useful for dehydrated skin, mild brightening, and sensitive skin that needs an introduction to peels before stronger formulations. Often combined with hyaluronic acid in formulations targeting dehydrated or post-procedure skin.

TCA (trichloroacetic acid)

The depth-led acid. TCA reaches into the deeper layers of the skin (mid to deep dermis depending on concentration) and treats deeper sun damage, fine lines, and resilient pigmentation that surface acids can't reach. Used in lower concentrations within PinkRX customised formulations to add depth to a surface-acid combination. Requires more careful calibration for Fitzpatrick IV-VI.

Kojic acid

A tyrosinase inhibitor: it interrupts melanin production at the cellular level. Kojic doesn't exfoliate the same way AHAs and BHAs do; it brightens by suppressing pigment formation. Used in PinkRX formulations targeting melasma, sun-damage pigmentation, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Often combined with mandelic or lactic in custom-zone applications.

Resorcinol

A clarifying acid that targets active acne, oily skin, and surface congestion. Resorcinol works alongside salicylic in multi-acid formulations for breakout-prone skin and helps with the texture changes that follow acne. Used in PinkRX clarifying formulations.

Each acid does specific work. A customised peel that combines them per face zone reaches what no single-formulation peel can reach alone.

What depths of peel exist, and how do clinicians choose?

Three depths, named clinically:

• Superficial (light) peels. Reach the upper layer (epidermis only). Glycolic, mandelic, lactic, and lower-strength salicylic peels sit here. No visible peeling, minimal downtime, results layer with repeated sessions. Most maintenance peels are superficial.
• Medium-depth peels. Reach into the upper dermis. Higher-strength glycolic, TCA at 20% to 35% concentration sit here. Visible peeling for three to five days, more pronounced results, longer recovery. Used for resilient pigmentation, deeper sun damage, and texture work that superficial peels can't reach.
• Deep peels. Reach the mid to deep dermis. Phenol and high-strength TCA. Significant downtime, results visible for months but require careful aftercare. Not part of Pink's PinkRX range; deeper resurfacing at this depth is laser territory (see the existing Facials Guide article on chemical peel vs laser resurfacing for the comparison).

PinkRX runs at superficial to medium depth depending on the formulation and the read. The clinician chooses depth based on what VISIA imaging surfaces, what the skin's pigmentation distribution looks like at the deeper layers, and what the recovery window allows.

VISIA is the diagnostic for the depth decision. It captures the face in calibrated light and maps four layers of skin information: pigment distribution (including pigmentation that hasn't surfaced yet), texture, pore density, and sun-damage signal in the dermis. What's invisible to the eye is mapped on the screen. The clinician uses that map to decide whether the skin needs a superficial brightening peel, a medium-depth correction, or a programme of layered sessions building from one to the other.

How is a customised peel different from a single-formulation peel?

A single-formulation peel applies one acid at one strength across the whole face. A customised peel combines acids in different formulations across different face zones, calibrated to what each zone of skin needs on the day.

PinkRX is built around customisation. Eight formulations, seven named acids, prescribed per face zone after a VISIA-led skin read. What that means in practice:

• The cheek zone with surface pigmentation might receive a mandelic-and-kojic formulation.
• The T-zone with active congestion might receive a salicylic-resorcinol clarifying formulation.
• The forehead with dehydration might receive a lactic-led brightening formulation.
• A pigmentation patch on the cheekbone might receive a TCA spot application at higher strength.

The whole face is treated in a single session, but the protocol on each zone is different. That's customisation: the depth and active matches the skin in that zone, not the menu.

Single-formulation peels are simpler and faster to deliver. They cost less and they're easier to standardise. Customised peels take longer to map at consultation and require the clinician to read the skin per zone, but they treat what's actually there rather than the nearest approximation a single formulation can offer. For skin that has more than one concern (which is most skin), customisation is what closes the gap between "the peel I booked" and "the skin I have."

For weighing whether a custom peel is what your skin needs versus a facial or laser, see the diagnostic guide and HydraFacial or Signature Facial.

More on Pink's PinkRX Chemical Peel — eight formulations, seven acids, calibrated per zone.

Is a chemical peel safe for darker skin tones?

Yes, when the acid and depth are calibrated for the skin type. The risk peels carry for Fitzpatrick IV-VI is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: the inflammatory response to the peel can trigger melanocytes (the cells that produce pigment) into overproduction, which can leave darker patches in the treated area.

That risk is real, and it's why some clinics avoid peels for darker skin tones altogether. Pink calibrates around the risk rather than avoiding the treatment. The consultation is where that calibration starts.

For Fitzpatrick IV-VI, Pink generally:

• Leads with mandelic acid rather than glycolic. The larger-molecule mandelic lifts surface pigmentation with a gentler inflammatory load.
• Reduces dwell times versus what would be used on Fitzpatrick I-III at the same strength.
• Includes kojic acid in custom formulations to suppress pigment formation alongside the exfoliation.
• Builds depth over a programme rather than reaching for it in one session.
• Uses VISIA imaging to map pigment distribution, including subsurface pigment that's at risk of surfacing post-treatment.

PinkRX is calibrated across all six Fitzpatrick types. The protocol that runs on Fitzpatrick II looks different from the protocol that runs on Fitzpatrick V, and the consultation is where that difference gets decided. Pink's Clinical Team is trained on calibrating chemical peels for every skin tone.

What does recovery look like?

Recovery depends on peel depth and skin response.

Superficial peels typically run with no visible peeling, mild flushing for an hour or two post-treatment, and a slight surface tightness that settles within the day. Most clients return to work the same afternoon. Sun protection is recommended for the next forty-eight to seventy-two hours; skincare actives (retinoids, vitamin C) are typically paused for three to five days.

Medium-depth peels produce visible peeling for three to five days. Day 1 to 2: slight pinkness, mild surface tightness. Day 3 to 4: surface flaking, sometimes visible peeling in patches. Day 5 to 7: skin clears, fresh layer surfaces. The clinician walks through aftercare at the appointment and provides post-treatment skincare guidance. Sun protection is non-negotiable during the peeling window.

What's normal: surface flaking, mild flushing, temporary sensitivity to actives. What's not normal: significant pain, severe swelling, persistent redness beyond a week, or visible burns. Pink's clinicians are reachable post-treatment for questions during the recovery window.

For most clients, the recovery investment is what produces the visible result. Skin that peels is skin that's renewing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will my skin peel visibly?

It depends on the peel depth. Superficial peels (most maintenance peels) usually run with no visible peeling: mild flushing the day of treatment, then a smoother surface over the next few days. Medium-depth peels produce visible peeling for three to five days, with day 3 to 4 being the most visible. Pink's PinkRX runs both depths depending on the formulation and the concern; the clinician explains what to expect at the consultation.

How many sessions are needed?

It depends on the concern. For maintenance brightening and surface texture: monthly to six-weekly, ongoing. For active correction (pigmentation, post-acne marks, deeper sun damage): four to six sessions across two to three months is the typical programme. Some pigmentation concerns build over a longer window. For preparation before laser or before a longer programme: one or two sessions can be enough. Individual response varies; the clinician adjusts after each session.

Can I do a peel before or after laser?

Yes, in a calibrated sequence. Peels and laser work at overlapping depths but through different mechanisms (chemical versus thermal). Combining the two is a clinician's call at consultation. Common patterns: a peel two to three weeks before laser to prep the surface, or laser first followed by a peel programme for maintenance. For the longer comparison between the two modalities, see the Facials Guide article on chemical peel vs laser resurfacing.

Are at-home peels worth trying?

At-home peels are lower-strength versions of clinical formulations, typically with glycolic or lactic acid at 5% to 10%. They have a place in a skincare routine for surface brightening and mild texture work, but they don't reach the depth or run the calibrated formulations that produce treatment-grade results. The honest answer: at-home peels are good for maintenance between clinical sessions, not as a replacement for them.

Is PinkRX safe for pigmentation, including melasma?

Yes, when calibrated. PinkRX's customised approach is particularly suited to pigmentation work because the formulations can be matched to the type, depth, and location of pigmentation on each face. For melasma specifically, the mandelic-and-kojic formulations are common, with TCA spot applications where the pigmentation is resilient. VISIA imaging maps the pigment distribution, including subsurface pigment, before the clinician calibrates the protocol. For deeper pigmentation that may require laser instead of peels, see Pink's Pigmentation room and the Pigmentation Guide article on how laser clears sun damage.

What makes PinkRX different from other chemical peels?

Three things. VISIA-led prescription: the formulation is mapped from a calibrated skin read, not selected from a menu. Eight formulations, seven acids, combined per face zone: customisation by zone rather than one acid across the whole face. Calibrated for all six Fitzpatrick types: Pink's clinical team is trained on adapting peel protocols across the full Fitzpatrick range, including the gentler-acid pathways for darker skin tones. PinkRX is Pink's proprietary peel.

More on Pink's PinkRX Chemical Peel

A chemical peel is treatment-grade exfoliation that's only as good as the calibration behind it. The acids matter. The depths matter. The clinician's read matters more.

Pink's PinkRX runs eight customised formulations across seven named acids, prescribed per face zone after a VISIA-led skin read. Single sessions start at $220; ongoing programmes work at packaged rates.

See Pink's PinkRX Chemical Peel treatment page — the acids, the depths, the protocols, the pricing.

For the full Pink facial range mapped concern-by-concern, see the diagnostic guide. For weighing peel against laser resurfacing, see the existing Facials Guide article on chemical peel vs laser resurfacing. For weighing a facial against a peel, see HydraFacial or Signature Facial.